Hello! The first guest of our Learn From Locals column is my dear friend Jorge Saco Vega. He told us about Leon, the city where he was born and raised, located in the North of Spain. Thanks again for his detailed answers. After reading the article, I'm sure you will start looking for a plane ticket to Leon...
What is the best way to explore city (walk, public transport or to rent a car)?
By walk for sure. Leon is a small city that can be seen easily by walk, no matter the age.
Which areas should be preferred to stay?
Historical Centre (Centro Histórico)
What are tourist traps? What is to avoid?
Probably because of its size, León is a highly safe city. Pickpocketing and thefts are very uncommon here. There’s no a high number of reported tourist traps in the city. The only thing I will mention is the little touristic train in front of Casa Botines. It is not a tourist trap itself, but I wouldn’t pay for that since the best way to see the city is by walk, which is not exhausting at all. In addition to this, for tourist is better to stay around the city centre, the surroundings haven’t nothing special to see and some neighborhoods could be a little dangerous during night (risk of small thefts).
What is must to do?
Art, History, Culture
The Famous Cathedral
It is one of the great works of peninsular Gothic and the monumental jewel of the capital of Leon. A symbol of the city. The Cathedral of Leon is perhaps the most beautiful Gothic cathedral in Spain. Its origins date back to the 10th century, at the height of the Christian reconquest, when part of the old Roman baths served as the base for the new Royal Palace of King Ordoño II. The set of stained glass windows is a real gem that must be visited.
The interior of the Real Colegiata de San Isidoro
The Real Colegiata de San Isidoro (Royal Collegiate Church of San Isidoro) is considered one of the best Romanesque buildings in the world. That is why the Royal Pantheon is known as the Sistine Chapel of the Romanesque.
Parador de San Marcos
With a Plateresque façade decorated with coats of arms, medallions, angels, garlands and sculptures, San Marcos is a building steeped in history, that emerged on the edge of the Camino de Santiago as a hospital and hostel for pilgrims.
Contemporary Art
Not only historical monuments; in León there is also space for contemporary architecture. To do this, it is best to go to Eras de Renueva, where you will find the Museum of Contemporary Art of Castile and Leon (MUSAC), the new Auditorium or the Municipal Mortuary (International Award of Architecture in 2001).
Casa Botines
One year after its opening as the largest Gaudà (Architect of Sagrada Familia) museum in the world, the Casa Botines celebrated 125 years in 2018 since its inauguration. Originally, the ground floor housed a textile. Today you can visit the interior, which has been completely refurbished. It was built between 1891 and 1892 and is one of the few works by the Catalan architect to be found outside Catalonia.
El Barrio Húmedo
At the foot of the cathedral, the narrow streets of the Barrio Húmedo are spread out, with the epicentre in the Plaza de San MartÃn. Here and there, taverns with wine and tapas make the city famous. If your visit coincides with a Saturday, you should go to the Plaza Mayor, where the only medieval market in the city is held. A few steps further south, is the Plaza del Grano which is, of all the squares, the one that best maintains the Castilian essence of León. The Rúa crosses the Barrio Húmedo to the Plaza San MartÃn. The pilgrims who follow the Camino de Santiago pass through here. When the pilgrims turn right on Calle Ancha, they will leave the Plaza de San Marcelo and the Casa Botines on their left, one of the three fantasies that Gaudà built far from Catalonia.
What is must to eat?
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡ TAPAS !!!!!!!!
León was the Spanish Capital of Gastronomy in 2018 and is currently the city with the most bars per inhabitant in all of the country, so it is difficult to highlight those with the best tapas, which in León are traditionally served free (you read it well, free, ¡GRATIS!) with your vemouth, wine or beer. You can find a huge variety, from the typical tapas to the most innovative creations.
In the historical centre of Leon there are two barrios where it is typical for the Leonese people to go out for some tapas, Barrio Húmedo and Barrio Romántico, both separated by Calle Ancha, the main street in the historical center of the city. You will find below a list with some of my favorite places to eat tapas in each barrio. The price is quite similar everywhere, this is because you only have to pay the drink and this has an average price in every place.
- Glass of wine (depends on the wine) – from 1,50 € to 3 €
- Beer (Caña) M size– from 1,50 € to 2,50 €
- Beer (Corto) S size – from 1,20 € to 1,30 €
- Vermouth – from 1,80€ to 2,50 €
They will serve you a free tapa per drink.
Barrio Húmedo
· El Rebote
· El Flechazo
· Entrepeñas
· El Mercado de Varillas
· Mama Tere
Barrio Romántico
· Clandestino Gastro Bar
· Cervantes 10 Gastro Bar
· Entrecalles
· La Trébede
· El Patio
For those who prefer handcrafted beer, there is also one in León: there is the Kadabra, La Céltica, the Cazurra Brew Pub and, last but not least, the Four Lions Brewery, highly recommended.
RESTORANLAR
Nimú azotea – €€
The niMÚ Azotea restaurant, located in the penthouse of the Conde Luna Hotel, offers the diner an interesting panoramic view over the old town of León. Its menu offers a market cuisine, with excellent raw materials, modern, creative and without abandoning some classic dishes of the national and Leonese gastronomy. You cannot leave without trying their fried quail egg niguiris with truffle or their original desserts.
Casa Mando – €€
This is the old Conde Luna Mesón, opened in 1964, which has now reopened its doors after a thorough renovation of its facilities but remaining faithful to its traditional gastronomic culture based on the best products of the region. Casa Mando offers a market cuisine, with a traditional recipe book that has always distinguished the cuisine of this emblematic place since its opening more than fifty years ago.
Ezequiel – €€
Located in the heart of Leon, in the middle of Calle Ancha, you can enjoy the best wines and tapas in the terrace or bar, buy handmade embutido and enjoy a delicious meal in the restaurant.
Cocinandos – €€€€ – * Michelin Star
Together with the Parador de San Marcos, it offers creations that are continually updated in a menu that is governed by the seasonality of the market and the culinary identity of León. Sophisticated dishes, which surprise with the balance achieved between textures and flavors that characterizes them. They now also have a beautiful grill for meat and fish and a small cellar where they start the tasting menu with a tapas bar in the purest style of the land.
Which season is the best to visit the city?
Leon is located in the north of Spain. During winter season the city reach minus 0 degrees very often, which might be a little uncomfortable for some people. However, in this time you may be lucky and enjoy the views of the city completely covered in white.
From May until September, we enjoy mild and warm temperatures, sometimes reaching 35º during summer months. The rest of year Leon is quite chill but showers and heavy rains are not very common in this area.
